At the heart of Germany lies sacrifice. When I planned this trip, I knew I had to stop at Opfermoor Vogtei, where the remains of thousands of years of both animal and human sacrifice were unearthed in the 20th century. What I didn’t know was the bog was located at the geographical center of the country. IN one of the many unforeseen dramas of this trip, I botched my schedule the day we were supposed to go here. Instead of foregoing the experience, I drove back 2 hours the next day to see this. I will forever be glad I did.
Since the Neolithic Age and well into 11th century, Opfermoor was a major religious center for Germany’s pre-Christian ancestors. The location itself has an intense, electrified energy. The site has several altars dedicated to different gods throughout the compound. Thousands of animal and human bones have been recovered, and only a small portion of the bog has been excavated. I spent the better part of an hour having a conversation with the museum curator (in broken German, she spoke no English. I was proud of myself for being able to understand her as well as I did.) about the site and it was fascinating. It is unfortunate that this is so far off the beaten path, since it was truly one of the most amazing things I have ever had the privilege of seeing.
This museum is located at the site of the former offices of the Gestapo and the SS. The building is as sparse and minimalist as possible. Everything about it screams “THIS IS NOT A MONUMENT”. The grounds themselves are surrounded by a field of jagged stone, as if the earth here has been scorched and salted so nothing will ever grow again. I did not take any photos inside, although they were allowed. It didn’t feel like anything I wanted photographs of. Mostly black and white photos and text, the museum traces the history or the Gestapo and the SS, and by extension the Nazi regime. I found this museum interesting because the symbolism of the place seemed to summarize the attitude the German people have toward the Holocaust and the war. I did not realize how romanticized it was in the States until I came here. We have turned it into a nightmarish fairy tale and the Nazis have become faceless drones that can be killed in video games or film without any remorse. The German people live with the reality of their past every single day. It surrounds them, and is glaring in its confrontation. Rather than feeling guilty or complaining about how they shouldn’t be forced to deal with the deeds of their ancestors (as we so often hear in America), the Germans have taken these reminders as an inspiration to try and be better, to refuse to regress. I found it interesting that during my visit everyone back home kept asking me about the refugees with fear and horror and everyone in Germany asked me about Trump in the same way.
America about Germany: “Why didn’t the Germans stand up to Hitler? They are all guilty because they didn’t make a stand! If everyone had resisted, he wouldn’t have gained power”
America about America: “These people shouldn’t protest Trump, they are just giving him what he wants.”
Germany about America: “Seriously? SERIOUSLY?? *turns to Russia* Were they not watching before??”
Russia: *shrugs* “Don’t look at us. We’ve got Putin now.”
The Altes Museum was built in the early 19th century to contain the Prussian royal family’s collection of art. As lovely as it looks in photos, in real life it is stunning. My traveling companion and I toured the museum for hours, studying the Ancient Greek, Roman, and Etruscan works. At 6pm the bells of the Berlin Cathedral began to ring the call to Vespers, so we ran outside to listen. Once out there, we saw a Syrian wedding party arrive in the Lustgarten out front. They danced and played music while the crowds gathered around and clapped. Later in the trip, I discovered that this exact location was used by the Nazi’s for rallies during WWII. In the image below, I would have been standing about where Hitler is standing as I filmed the New Berlin being celebrated.
I spent the day in Kreuzberg with my friends Elliott and Ben. We found this cemetery that had not only Felix Mendelssohn’s grave, but also E.T.A. Hoffmann, the Romantic-era author of the book The Nutcracker was based on, as well as the protagonist of Offenbach’s opera Tales of Hoffman.
Angela Brower (Nicklausse) and Diana Damrau (Giulietta) in the 4th act of Jacques Offenbach’s “Les contes d’Hoffmann” in a production by Richard Jones. Bayerische Staatsoper 2011.
An Study of the German Forest in Song, Myth, and Folklore