At the heart of Germany lies sacrifice. When I planned this trip, I knew I had to stop at Opfermoor Vogtei, where the remains of thousands of years of both animal and human sacrifice were unearthed in the 20th century. What I didn’t know was the bog was located at the geographical center of the country. IN one of the many unforeseen dramas of this trip, I botched my schedule the day we were supposed to go here. Instead of foregoing the experience, I drove back 2 hours the next day to see this. I will forever be glad I did.
Since the Neolithic Age and well into 11th century, Opfermoor was a major religious center for Germany’s pre-Christian ancestors. The location itself has an intense, electrified energy. The site has several altars dedicated to different gods throughout the compound. Thousands of animal and human bones have been recovered, and only a small portion of the bog has been excavated. I spent the better part of an hour having a conversation with the museum curator (in broken German, she spoke no English. I was proud of myself for being able to understand her as well as I did.) about the site and it was fascinating. It is unfortunate that this is so far off the beaten path, since it was truly one of the most amazing things I have ever had the privilege of seeing.
The Altes Museum was built in the early 19th century to contain the Prussian royal family’s collection of art. As lovely as it looks in photos, in real life it is stunning. My traveling companion and I toured the museum for hours, studying the Ancient Greek, Roman, and Etruscan works. At 6pm the bells of the Berlin Cathedral began to ring the call to Vespers, so we ran outside to listen. Once out there, we saw a Syrian wedding party arrive in the Lustgarten out front. They danced and played music while the crowds gathered around and clapped. Later in the trip, I discovered that this exact location was used by the Nazi’s for rallies during WWII. In the image below, I would have been standing about where Hitler is standing as I filmed the New Berlin being celebrated.
I had a nightmare that I was here in Germany and I had to go grocery shopping, but instead of regular groceries I bought big sacks of grain and barrels of stuff. I had to bring my stuff down into the apartment on a big elevator platform thing, but all these people kept trying to steal my sacks of grain. Then this swarthy looking guy dressed in black and with a camera man following him around with a camera that said “ABC Wide World of Sports” jumped up on floor above us and yelled, “I AM ROME!!!!!” and grabbed one of my sacks of grain and started to take off with it. I managed to wrest my grain from his clutches and grabbed his ankle as the platform continued to sink slowly, effectively dislocating his hip. There was also part in the dream where I was being subjected to a witch trial, but because this was the New Germany, they did it via television as an interview process and the ultimate test was your ability to properly answer the questions on an 8 page form in pen without making any mistakes. In German. If you couldn’t do this, there was some sort of vague threat of an ill demise in a mill pond.
Yeah, everything was coming up Ken Russell in my dreams last night.
An Study of the German Forest in Song, Myth, and Folklore