“Ostalgie” is a term used to describe a nostalgic longing for the East German state and all of its trappings. Contrary to popular belief, while most East Germans were grateful to be intergrated into the West, it hasn’t been a smooth process and the struggle continues today. Former East Germans often feel that their culture and traditions were obliterated in favor of the capitalist West. Also, the East German states continue to be on average poorer and less prosperous than their Western counterparts. Symbols of the East are everywhere, from Trabant rental services to the growing presence of “Ampelmann”, the ubiquitous crosswalk guardian here in Berlin with his origins in the East.
As a child of the Cold War whose uncle was stationed in West Berlin for the better part of the late 70s-early 80s, I am intrigued by the fact that I am living in East Berlin. Our U-Bahn stop, Rosenthaler Platz, was a “ghost station”, where trains from the West would pass through but were unable to stop. The Wall is everywhere, and the meandering path was confusing for me until I remembered that West Berlin was a literal island. The prevalence of Vietnamese and Chinese restaurants in our neighborhood seems out of place, until I remember that these were allied nations with East German communist state. From the Soviet Brutalist architecture to the remnants of The Wall and the towering Fernsehturm, it has been exciting to finally be here and see the Forbidden City with my own eyes.
There is a word in German for missing a place you’ve never been. It is used to mean you have a desire for travel, to see new places. Instead, I seem to be having a sort of nostalgia for a place and time I have never seen. Growing up during the Cold War, my uncle was stationed here in the 70s. Everywhere I go here has this weird feeling like I miss something, or that it reminds me of my childhood somehow. Everything is so familiar and yet so alien.
I am having difficulty sleeping. Of course, part of that might be the neighbor who decided to dump a years worth of recycling down the stairs at 3:30 this morning, or whatever happened. Ah, life in the big city, how I missed you. Everything is so quiet around here that when people do make a big ruckus it really stands out. Today I am going to go out into the city by myself and try and track down a kitchen knife and a can opener, as well as some groceries for tomorrow. Everything is closed on Sundays and I want to be prepared.
Went grocery shopping by myself today. I fared well, I just turn on my “city walk” I learned in LA and nobody messes with me. I don’t know why I am surprised every time someone assumes I am German. I guess I think I stick out like a sore thumb, screaming “big fat American chick” everywhere I go. In Germany, yogurt is a thing, and the selection is intimidating. They even had marzipan flavored yogurt. Shopping took forever because I had to try and figure out what I was looking at. They have McDonalds brand ketchup in bottles here. McDonalds is a thing as well, there seem to be everywhere. I almost died laughing when I saw there was an “American Food” section at the store, similar to the “Asian Food” section back home. It wasn’t that it existed as much as what it contained. Cholula hot sauce and peanut butter were the 2 that stood out.
I miss my Soda Stream. The water here tastes like a gopher died in it, was resurrected, and killed again for good measure. Everyone drinks mineral water, but it gets pricey. I have tried to switch to tea as much as I can, but I just can’t get behind it.
Both Elliott and I are fairly convinced our apartment is haunted. Seriously. Last night we both had an occasion where we were certain the other one had come in to the other’s room, only to find there was no one there. Elliott even had a short conversation with “me” before it dawned on him I wasn’t there. So far, these things only seem to happen in the wee, dark hours of the morning. Regardless of how insane this might sound, it is interesting.
Still haven’t made eye contact with a dog yet.
Washing machine continues to be a mystery, and my clothes are piling up. Perhaps the ghost is the spirit of the washing machine letting me know it has passed on? Now I am picturing The Water Gopher and the Spülengeist floating and glowing like Yoda and Obi Wan.
I just wanted to add that I have never felt so cool in my life as I do waiting for the U-Bahn.
An Study of the German Forest in Song, Myth, and Folklore