The Museum of World War II outside Boston has paid $50,000 for Anne Frank’s inscribed copy of Grimm’s fairy tales, in what the museum is calling the first major offering of material connected directly with Frank in nearly 20 years…
I opted to do this alone. I don’t really have anything I could possibly say to make the gravity and horror of a concentration camp make sense to anyone who hasn’t been to one. It doesn’t even make sense once you’ve been to one. This place is an unholy despair factory designed by sadistic brilliance. And right now I am sitting at a mass grave, in pleasant neighborhood listening to the autobahn and the blackbirds whir and chirp in the background. They built the modern police training barracks next to the camp. As a warning. This is what happens when authority goes unchecked and brutality takes the place of protection. This is a terrible place filled with the memories of terrible acts that illustrate how far that can go in the blink of an eye.
This trip to the concentration camp has left me feeling pretty fragile inside. It was so much worse than I imagined it would be. It isn’t the same as reading about it. It’s so much more visceral standing where tens of thousands experienced cruelty and pain none of us will ever know. I genuinely loathe the idea of people suffering such unimaginable atrocities, to the point where I can’t shake it. I always assumed this was normal, but after watching people runaround the camp with their selfie sticks and then talk about where to go for lunch on the bus afterward, I don’t know anymore. I felt sick and horrible the whole time, like there was a stench in the air but you couldn’t smell it. I had to force myself to take pictures because I knew I would regret not documenting it. I sat for a really long time at the mass grave and didn’t even realize there were tears in my eyes. Is it stupid to get that emotionally worked up about anonymous people who died 70 years ago? I don’t think so. Someone has to mourn them, and anyone who remembers them is most likely dead by now.
At the heart of Germany lies sacrifice. When I planned this trip, I knew I had to stop at Opfermoor Vogtei, where the remains of thousands of years of both animal and human sacrifice were unearthed in the 20th century. What I didn’t know was the bog was located at the geographical center of the country. IN one of the many unforeseen dramas of this trip, I botched my schedule the day we were supposed to go here. Instead of foregoing the experience, I drove back 2 hours the next day to see this. I will forever be glad I did.
Since the Neolithic Age and well into 11th century, Opfermoor was a major religious center for Germany’s pre-Christian ancestors. The location itself has an intense, electrified energy. The site has several altars dedicated to different gods throughout the compound. Thousands of animal and human bones have been recovered, and only a small portion of the bog has been excavated. I spent the better part of an hour having a conversation with the museum curator (in broken German, she spoke no English. I was proud of myself for being able to understand her as well as I did.) about the site and it was fascinating. It is unfortunate that this is so far off the beaten path, since it was truly one of the most amazing things I have ever had the privilege of seeing.
We stopped in Weimar on our way from Leipzig to Opfermoor Vogtei. Weimar was a charming Thuringian city in Central Germany, home to literary icons like Goethe and Schiller, the Wiemar Republic, Bauhaus, and a town idealized by the Nazis as a ideal of German culture. It is also home to Buchenwald Concentration Camp, which we did not go to. One of the more interesting things Elliott and I noted in Weimar was a noticeable lack of small children.
An Study of the German Forest in Song, Myth, and Folklore